Hybrid bermudagrass

What is hybrid bermudagrass?

Hybrid bermudagrass is a cross between common bermudagrass (Cynodon dactylon) and African bermudagrass (Cynodon transvaalensis). Clemson notes the hybrid turf varieties come from these two species. They make finer leaves, denser growth and fewer seedheads than common bermudagrass, and NC State describes them as pollen-free.

Because the hybrids are sterile, they must be planted as sod, sprigs or plugs. Cultivars named by UF/IFAS, Clemson and NC State include Tifway (also sold as 419), TifSport, TifGrand, TifTuf, Celebration, Latitude 36, NorthBridge, Tahoma 31, T-10 and GN-1. Each was bred for a different mix of wear, drought, shade or cold tolerance.

Hybrids look their best mowed short with a reel mower and fed on a schedule. That makes them a great fit for sports turf and high-end lawns, and a poor fit for low-care yards or shade. For seeded types, see our bermudagrass page.

How to identify hybrid bermudagrass

Pull up a few shoots and look closely where the leaf blade meets the stem. Here is what to check on hybrid bermudagrass:

• Vernation: Folded in the bud.
• Ligule: A fringe of hairs.
• Auricles: None.
• Collar: Narrow.
• Leaf blade: Finer than common bermudagrass, with a pointed tip; texture varies by cultivar.
• Seedhead: Few seedheads, and the seed is sterile; when present, 3 to 5 finger-like spikes.
• Growth habit: Dense stolons and rhizomes with uneven spacing between leaves.

Where hybrid bermudagrass is grown in the US

Hybrid bermudagrass is the fine, dense turf on many southern golf courses, sports fields and high-end lawns. Clemson lists golf courses, athletic fields, tennis courts and bowling greens among its main uses, with dwarf and ultra-dwarf types used on putting greens.

Most cultivars came out of US university breeding programs. UF/IFAS names TifTuf from the University of Georgia, Latitude 36 and NorthBridge from Oklahoma State, and PremierPRO from Texas A&M. Latitude 36 and NorthBridge are more cold tolerant than older hybrids, according to UF/IFAS.

Like all bermudagrass, it needs full sun and steady care. UF/IFAS notes that golf and athletic cultivars need high maintenance.

Hybrid bermudagrass pros and cons

Pros

• Fine, dense, high-quality turf
• Excellent wear tolerance and fast recovery
• Excellent drought and salt tolerance
• Few seedheads and no pollen
• Many cultivars bred for specific needs (cold, drought, shade, wear)

Cons

• Cannot be seeded; sod or sprigs only
• Poor shade tolerance
• Needs frequent, low mowing for best quality, ideally with a reel mower
• Higher fertilizer and water needs
• Builds thatch and invades beds
• Brown and dormant in winter

Grasses that look like hybrid bermudagrass

How and when to plant hybrid bermudagrass

Ways to plant: Sod, sprigs or plugs only. Hybrids are sterile and cannot be grown from seed (Clemson).

Seeding rate: Not seeded. Sprigs at 5 to 10 bushels per 1,000 sq ft, each sprig with at least two nodes; plugs 12 to 24 in. apart (UF/IFAS).

Germination: No seed (sterile). Plugs at 12 to 24 in. spacing cover in about 3 to 9 months (UF/IFAS).

When to plant: Late spring into summer. NC State starts replanting bare spots in late May. In north Florida, spring or early summer is best; across much of Florida bermudagrass can be planted any time of year (UF/IFAS).

Seeding dates change from state to state. See when to plant grass seed by state, or our Pennsylvania grass seed guide if you are in PA.

How to care for hybrid bermudagrass

Mowing: Mow 1 to 2 in. for a typical lawn, 1 to 2 times a week (UF/IFAS). Use a reel mower for cuts under 1 in. Celebration looks uneven above 2 in. Never remove more than one-third of the blade.

Watering: About 1 in. per week while growing (NC State). Once established, water when leaves fold, wilt, turn blue-gray or hold footprints, applying 1/2 to 3/4 in. (UF/IFAS). UF/IFAS says new sod needs about 1/4 in. of water two or more times a day until it roots in, usually 2 to 3 weeks.

Fertilizing: Apply 1/2 to 1 lb N per 1,000 sq ft per feeding, and wait 30 to 60 days after planting before the first one (UF/IFAS). NC State: feed every 4 to 6 weeks in summer, no more than 1/2 lb in September, and no feeding December through February.

Nitrogen per year: Florida: 3 to 5 lb (north), 4 to 6 lb (central), 5 to 7 lb (south) N per 1,000 sq ft per year; UF/IFAS says this is likely more than most home lawns need. Wait 30 to 60 days after planting before the first feeding.

Overseeding: Fall overseeding with ryegrass is common for winter color (Clemson).

Thatch: Aggressive growth builds thatch (UF/IFAS). NC State says to remove thatch over 1/2 in. thick by vertical mowing after full green-up.

Common hybrid bermudagrass problems

If a pesticide is needed, use only products labeled for that use; the label is the law. If you hire someone to treat a lawn, make sure they hold your state’s pesticide applicator license; see our pesticide applicator license guide. To put a name to a lawn weed, use our weed identification guide.

Questions we get about hybrid bermudagrass

Similar lawn grasses

BermudagrassCynodon dactylonBahiagrassPaspalum notatumBuffalograssBouteloua dactyloides