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Mouse-ear Chickweed

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Pennsylvania weed ID · Lawn broadleaf

Mouse-ear Chickweed

Cerastium fontanum · Caryophyllaceae (pink family)

  • Perennial
  • Broadleaf
  • Non-native

If your lawn has low, fuzzy, dark green mats that the mower glides right over and that never seem to go away, you're probably looking at mouse-ear chickweed.

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Mouse-ear Chickweed (Cerastium fontanum) growing — Pennsylvania weed identification photo
Photo: Wikimedia Commons contributor · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

What is mouse-ear chickweed?

Mouse-ear chickweed is a low-growing perennial weed from Europe that forms dense, fuzzy mats in lawns. Getting mouse-ear chickweed identification right is helpful because it’s often confused with common chickweed, which behaves differently: common chickweed is a winter annual, while mouse-ear sticks around year after year.

Its trailing stems root wherever they touch the ground, so a few plants slowly become a patch. It tolerates close mowing well, which is why it’s so common in lawns.

It isn’t harmful, but in a thin lawn it crowds out grass and leaves open, matted patches.

Mouse-ear chickweed identification: what to look for

Get down on your hands and knees and check these features:

  • Leaves: small, dark green and oblong, in opposite pairs with no stalk. They’re covered in fine hairs, so they feel soft and fuzzy, like a mouse’s ear.
  • Stems: hairy, trailing along the ground and rooting at the joints, forming a dense mat that hugs the soil.
  • Flowers: small and white, with five petals notched at the tip, borne in loose clusters at the stem ends. The hairy green sepals behind the petals are nearly as long as the petals themselves.
  • Seed capsules: small, slightly curved cylinders that stick up above the flowers.

If it’s fuzzy and stays green through summer, it’s mouse-ear. If it’s smooth, bright green and dies back in the heat, it’s probably common chickweed.

Mouse-ear Chickweed (Cerastium fontanum) — identification photo
Photo: Neelix · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons
Mouse-ear Chickweed (Cerastium fontanum) — identification photo
Photo: Neelix · Public domain · Wikimedia Commons

Where it grows in Pennsylvania

Mouse-ear chickweed grows statewide in lawns, parks, roadside turf, garden paths and the edges of beds. It handles sun or shade and does fine in poorer, lower-fertility soil.

It tends to be worst in thin turf, short-mowed lawns and areas where cool, moist conditions linger, like north-facing slopes and low spots on clay soil. Once it settles in, its rooting stems let it hold onto ground that grass can’t fill.

You’ll also see it where lawns have been scalped, worn by foot traffic or damaged by grubs or drought. Any open ground in late summer is a chance for it to move in, which is why the condition of your turf matters more than anything you spray.

Mouse-ear chickweed look-alikes

A few low lawn weeds can be confused with mouse-ear chickweed:

  • Common chickweed is the main look-alike. Its leaves are smooth, bright green and pointed, with a single line of hairs down the stem. It’s a winter annual that thrives in early spring and fades in summer.
  • Speedwells, like creeping speedwell, have rounded, scalloped leaves and tiny blue flowers with four petals.
  • Heal-all creeps too, but it has square stems, larger lance-shaped leaves and short spikes of purple flowers.

The fuzz on the leaves is the giveaway: run a fingertip over one and you’ll feel it.

How to get rid of mouse-ear chickweed

Hand and mechanical. In a small lawn patch or a bed, hand pulling works if you’re thorough. The roots are shallow, but the rooted stems break, so work the whole mat loose with your fingers or a hand weeder and lift it out. It’s easiest when the soil is moist. Fill the bare spot with seed or soil so it doesn’t come right back. A stiff rake can thin out bigger mats before overseeding, though it won’t remove the roots on its own.

Cultural. Mouse-ear loves thin, short turf. Raise your mower to 3 to 3.5 inches, fertilize mainly in fall based on a soil test, and overseed in late summer or early fall so your grass thickens up. Fix drainage problems in wet spots, and pick grass types suited to the site, like fine fescues for shade.

Chemical. Because it’s a perennial, postemergence herbicides are more useful than preemergence ones. Extension turf programs list broadleaf combination products containing 2,4-D, dicamba, MCPP (mecoprop) or MCPA, often as two- or three-way mixes, and fluroxypyr-containing products as effective. Repeat applications are often needed. Fall, when the weed is actively growing and moving sugars to its roots, is the best time, with a follow-up in spring if needed.

Always read and follow the product label, because the label is the law, and make sure it’s labeled for your type of lawn grass and your site. Applying herbicide for hire in Pennsylvania requires a PA Department of Agriculture pesticide applicator certification, so larger lawn programs should go to a licensed lawn-care company.

Keeping it from coming back

Mouse-ear chickweed is a sign of thin, low-mowed turf, so the real fix is a thick, healthy lawn. Keep your mower high, fertilize in fall, and overseed thin areas every year or two.

Edge your beds so creeping stems can’t spread from lawn into mulch. Check the lawn in spring and fall and pull small patches before they spread.

If it keeps coming back in a soggy low spot, fixing the drainage will help your grass take the space back.

Questions we get about mouse-ear chickweed

What's the difference between mouse-ear chickweed and common chickweed?

Mouse-ear has fuzzy, dark green leaves and is a perennial that roots along its stems. Common chickweed has smooth, bright green leaves and is a winter annual that fades in summer heat.

Will crabgrass preventer stop mouse-ear chickweed?

Not really. It's a perennial, so established plants aren't affected. Thick turf and, if needed, a fall broadleaf treatment work better.

Is mouse-ear chickweed harmful to pets?

It isn't considered toxic. It's mainly a cosmetic lawn problem that signals thin turf.

Weeds taking over a bed, slope or wet spot?

If weeds have taken over a thin, patchy lawn, Muthler can regrade and reseed or sod the area so you start with thick turf. We rebuild beds, regrade and drain wet ground, clear overgrown brush and build patios and walls across Clinton, Lycoming, Centre and Union counties.

Get a free estimate(570) 397-9800

Similar weeds

Photos: Wikimedia Commons contributors, credited under each photo (used under their Creative Commons or public-domain licenses).
Further reading: Penn State Extension
Herbicides: always read and follow the product label. Applying pesticides for hire in Pennsylvania requires PA Dept. of Agriculture certification.
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